Monday, April 20, 2009

THE RIGHT WAY ROUND (2nd Edition)


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Onboard Fair Dinkum – Bass Strait
Position: 38.13 049 South / 148.41 777 East Middle of the Bass Strait Oil Rigs

TO REFUGE COVE: The gale force winds & rain that hit Melbourne early morning last Tuesday chased Fair Dinkum all the way to Refuge Cove on Wilson’s Promotory – both Fair Dinkum and crew have been hiding at Refuge Cover until setting sail again early this morning to cross the paddock to Gabo Island and then head north along the east coast to Eden.

Did you know #1?
The jutting spur of Wilsons Promontory is a fragment of a former land bridge that once connected the Australian mainland to Tasmania, across the Bass Strait.
Sailing around the bottom of Wilson’s Promontory was a great experience, with the enormous rock formations visible many miles away. One huge monolith called Skull Rock (Cleft Island) stands out like a beacon for miles, and the incredible South East Point lighthouse perched precariously on a rocky outcrop is an awesome sight!










Refuge Cove is exactly that! It is a safe haven after leaving Melbourne to ‘get a shake down’ before heading across the last of Bass Strait to Gabo Island. And ‘shake down’ is the mild version of what happened when Fair Dinkum dragged anchor.

Skipper to crew “We best get the anchor up and reset” – much activity by all to get the anchor up – Skipper reverses to reposition – “What the ##**!! IS THAT” – whoops, forgot the dinghy was tied to the stern!! Fair Dinkum gets blasted sideways, the dinghy rope goes around the prop, and a huge gust of wind lays Fair Dinkum’s mast towards the ocean – the CHAOS THEORY kicks in for several minutes until she rights herself and the anchor is hastily dropped again. Skipper thinks “Must make an effort to remember that the dinghy has left the deck, and is astern”. Crew think “why the ##**!! did he go astern without bringing the dinghy alongside”.

Dallas decided to ‘cool off’ and dived into the freezing waters to save the day, cutting the rope to free the propellor.

The steep bush-clad hills that surround Refuge Cove offer a brief respite. It’s marvellous what a couple of days rest can do for sailors. You soon forget. Refuge Cove is one of those special spots in the south of Australia that has particular significance for those that choose to travel by sea.










Looking down from the cliffs at the tiny bay dwarfed by the grandeur all around seemed to make the trouble and discomfort of our first day all worth it. But….”The road to success has many tempting parking places” and the east coast is our next milestone, so Refuge Cove was left behind.

TO EDEN: From Refuge Cove, Eden is 225nm, or 42 hours to the north east. This part of our circumnavigation marks the end of Bass Strait and is a major milestone. At daybreak we hoisted sails to a Southwester and slipped out of Refuge Cove. About midday the first of the oil drilling platforms appeared and throughout the next couple of hours we found ourselves tracking through eight of them. They made the day pass quickly while on watch, having something to focus on and knowing that major shipping does not come this way.











Large groups of fur seals seemed to gather every few miles for aerobics classes, weight watchers, country womens institute, bridge club and general AGM’s. It was obvious from their configuration and activity (or lack of it), what group they belonged to. Bridge Clubs seemed to be the most popular, with seals seemingly quite happy to show their “cards” above the water, to all and sundry.
As darkness falls tonight Gabo Island will still be a good way off, but with luck we will get through the confusion of the opposing wave forms that will confront Fair Dinkum there. The opposing tidal flow in this area can slow the progress of passage considerably, even if we choose to motor sail.
We hope to be in Eden within 2 days if the weather remains reasonably stable.

Did you know #2?
Many visitors to the pristine Wilsons Promontory National Park today would be surprised at Refuge Cove’s dark past as a whaling station and Granite Quarry.

1798
George Bass and a crew of six travel in an open whaleboat from Port Jackson (Sydney) to try and establish whether a Strait exists between NSW and Van Diemen’s Land (Tasmania). Due to poor navigation equipment he initially mistakes the Prom for the Furneaux Islands (Flinders Island) and sets out to sea, presuming Van Diemens Land to be close. When their boat starts to leak they head back stopping at Great Glennie Island lured there by a plume of smoke. To their great surprise they find seven half starved convicts who they help upon their return from Western Port. They take two onboard for the return journey and help the remaining five to the mainland where they share their meagre rations; they are never heard from again. Poor weather kept them in the area for another 15 days during which they explored Sealers Cove, Seal Island and Corner Inlet. Later upon the suggestions of Bass and Flinders, Governor Hunter names the Prom after their friend, Thomas Wilson, a London trader who had recommended Matthew Flinders to the Governor.

1799
Captain Charles Bishop (who later became a business partner of Bass and after whom Mt Bishop is named) accompanies Bass and Flinders on the first part of their circumnavigation of Tasmania (confirming the existence of Bass Strait) and commences sealing. Less than two months later he returned to Sydney with 5,200 pelts and 300 gallons of Seal oil.

1800-06
Up to 200 colonial and foreign operators harvest seals in Bass Strait landing over 100,000 skins in Sydney. This decimated the population to such an extent that it became unprofitable upon which Whaling and Mutton birding took over. Refuge Cove, Home Cove and Rabbit Island are used as bases with the slaughter being great enough to run their waters red. Today, over 200 years later seal numbers are estimated to have recovered to about 30,000.

1841
A whaling station is established at Lady’s Bay (now Refuge Cove). Whales hunted out by 1847, local timber used to boil down the blubber.

1859-60
Crushed granite quarried from Refuge Cove for Port Albert road making.

1880’s
Crushed granite quarried from Refuge Cove for the new entrance to the Gippsland Lakes.
The old granite quarry

1905
Wilsons Promontory National Park is created becoming Victoria’s second National Park, 30,350ha are permanently reserved. The land however is still subject to the mining laws and the timber was under the control of the forestry department. Many areas are also excluded, including Sealers Cove, Refuge Cove, Waterloo Bay, Oberon Bay, Mt Singapore, South-east Point and a half mile wide strip of coastline. Existing grazing leases are used to fund the management of the park.

1969
Yanakie Run, Refuge Cove and Great Glennie Island, Dannevig Island, McHugh Island, Ramsbotham Rocks and Rabbit Rocks added to the Park (park now 50,460ha).

2007
Refuge Cove added to the Victorian Heritage Register (due to its whaling past).

2009
The devastating ‘Black Saturday’ bushfires destroy large areas of bushland within the Wilsons Promontory National Park.

Gerry, Rob & Dallas

Don’t forget to share this Blog’s address with your friends and work mates around Australia, do your part to help promote the fundraising purpose of the Fair Dinkum’s voyage….helping others by raising money for the Stroke Foundation.

Quote of the Week is from William Falconer –
‘The effect of sailing is produced by a judicious arrangement of the sails to the direction of the wind.’

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